Trekking in the Annapurna Sanctuary
Trekking in the Annapurna Sanctuary
-14th to 27th January 2007 -
Kiran D. Mistry MBA - Kathmandu, Nepal
www.justgiving.com/kirandmistry
Introduction:
I first came here at the age of 43 and was astounded by its breath-taking beauty. And today I have returned at the age of 63, one more time before I die and have brought my 16 year old son with me.
An Australian trekker I met at Annapurna Base Camp
For myself, aged 43, I vouch for those words.. I have been fortunate enough to see lots of wonderful places in the world and met some wonderful people along the wayboth in professional and social circles.but there is little else in the world for me that can take my breath away as these views did.and I hope I will have the courage and stamina to return to this Himalayan amphitheatre, aged 63.
I will borrow some words from the Lonely Planets guide to provide an executive summary of our trek:
The route to Annapurna Sanctuary, the site of Annapurna south face base camp, is a spectacular trek. Although it has some steep climbs and crosses a few narrow bridgesthe trek transverses a variety of terrain, from lowland villages and rice terraces to glaciers, and offers outstanding high mountain viewsit is best to allow two weeks to fully appreciate the high altitude scenery.
Lonely Planet Guide Book
Some salient facts from our trek:
Trek duration: 14 days
Maximum Elevation: 4130 metres (13,549 feet)
Starting point: 1130 metres
Total height ascended: 5940 metres (19,483 feet)
Total time: 69 hours
Distance trekked: 91.5 km ( 56.73miles)
I owe an immense debt to Hemant A. Mistry, my traveling companion, guide and soul mate for the journey. Without his dedication, perseverance and mountainsof patience, I would not have been able to undertake this journey.
Also, to my wife, Nila, for allowing me to escape for such a long time away from home and to my daughter Krishna-Kamal, I hope she finds her own inspiration to travel the world.
My gratitude to colleagues at WJC Ltd. for their support and understanding.
It was a fantastic voyage.in many ways a voyage of self-discovery and if you do find time, please read the email. Suffice to say, if you can spare the time, please do visit the Himalayas once in your lifetime.
A walk in the park..not
Hemant suggested this trek would be a walk in the park..for someone unaccustomed to walking in his local park, this was definitely a big challenge, physically and mentally for me.
The first hour of the trek proved hard and that was just the walk from our hotel in Pokhara to the bus station..a distance of a couple of miles.my rucksack packed with 9 kgs. felt unusually heavy
The trail at Phedi, our starting point, was a very steep climb up to Dampus.thoughts of hiring a helicopter were shared with a Japanese trekker..although he looked 60 in age. We climbed 520 metres ( 1706ft) in 4 hours and I was shatteredso many stepsThe meal for me consisted of vegetable fried noodles, not my favourite meal but one that was going to be my staple diet for the next 2 weeks. Hemant seemed to gorge himself on the Dal / Bhat ( rice) that was the Nepali traditional dish.
The early morning views in Dampus were spectacular but were a mere taster for what was to come. Our 2nd day followed a trail through rhododendron forest and yet another steep climb up to Pothana at 1990m. We ended our day early at 1.30pm at Bichok Deurali at 2150m those steps were sapping my energy and most important my enthusiasm. The trek was a lot more difficult for me.even had thoughts of turning backworse, at this village, it was the last time I would have mobile phone contact for the next 12 days. The temperature was dropping as well we were into single digit Celsius. A glorious log fire was lit in the dining room to help us thaw out.
Day 3 we woke up to a frost covered scene and some spectacular scenes of Annaprurna South (7219m) and Hiunchuli (6441m) mountains. An early start for a full 8 hour day.6 hours of trekkingseveral sets of descents and a few climbs.the total descent for the day was 810 metresand I knew once again, we would have to climb all those blasted steps again. The first descent took us through forests alive with birds (please dont ask me to name any of these feathered variety!), ferns and orchids into a huge side canyon of the Modi hola river. Our descend continued down to a stream crossing at 1790m into the village of Tolka, and a welcome early morning brunch of Gurung bread, tomato omelet and a big pot of black tea. A rather long and tiresome day ended at 4.30pm at New Bridge a further descent past Ladruk and an absolute killer for those ankles/thighs.descending steps is equally hard on those knees. Tonight, I was not even going to get out of my trekking clothesafter a reasonable tomota pizza, I retired to the dimply lit room and crawled into my sleeping bag.
Our journey next day crossed another stream on a cement bridge and climbed steeply to Jhinu Danda at 1750m. At the bottom of a 300m descend lay hot springs which provided a welcome relief for my tired legs and also a back ache which I had managed to contract whilst in Goa.
The next day was not fun at all a very steep climb up to Chomrong the only compensation was I as able to use the only phone in the village a satellite phone to tell Nila I will be out of touch for the next 10 days or so. The cost was 200 Nepal Rupees a minute. The Himalayan View tea house had not only a television but also a fridge. To think the porters had to carry these devices all the way up these mountains. Each porter tends to carry up to 35 kgs. and earns 500NPR ( 7 USD) a day. They are exceptionally strong people. Each night from now on, we had to rely on kerosene heaters which are placed under the dining table to help us keep warm but also to help dry our clothes. Each afternoon, we would end up changing out of our sweat laden clothes into something dry.
We woke up on Day 6 to some spectacular views of Annaprurna South , Hiunchuli and Macchpuchhare Macchameans fish and puchharemeans tail from certain view points the mountains ridges resemble a fishtail.
Chomrong is the highest permanent settlement on this trail at 2120m. And so to another 7 hour trek day, 610m ascent and 510m descent. Oh, the joys of those stone staircases. The suspension bridge at the bottom of Chomrong ( 3229 steps down) was supplemented by a cement bridge further along. Hemant decided to use the former whilst I had more faith in the latter. And then to a gloriousclimbnot.to Sinuwa and a further climb after lunch to Kuldi (2470m) and low and behold a steep descend to Bamboo at 2310m. At this part of the trek, we encountered snow for the first time.
The trek from Bamboo to Himalayan Hotel (2840m), a 530m ascent proved to be the most difficult. You climb through rhododendron forests, the floor thick with bamboo roots, often hidden by snow and very slippery. There were several descents necessary to cross the tributary streams on narrow bridges. We passed the remains of debris from an avalanche which claimed the lives of a Sherpa kitchen crew in 1989.
We were now trekking along the deep Modi Khola valley, sometimes the long drop down to the river is not visible due to the dense forestation and heavy mist. Not most pleasant if anyone suffers from vertigo.The weather had remained cold and damp but after Chomrong we seem to be blessed with sunny days. Day 8 to Deorali was bless fully short at just 4 hours and a 380m climb. On route we passed Hinko cave at 3100m and crossed a ravine, clambering up large boulders to get to Deorali.
The trail continues to ascend but more gradually and Day 9 takes us to the gatesof the sanctuary. It is hard to comprehend how high these mountains are and how wide the valley is formed as it is by a huge glacier. As the day wore on, I found it difficult to take each step and began to suffer from a slight headache. At this point, Hemant suggested we turn back as these were signs of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). We were walking at 3,000 metres, and it was going to take time for my body to adjust to the thinner air. I decided to push on, albeit helped by a Mars bar break. We were met by an Australian group of trekkers who provided their supply of Diamox tablets which help thin the blood one of their team had acute headaches and vomited the night before. I decided I would only resort to it if the situation gets worse in the end I never used them.
Our goal to reach Macchpuchare Base Camp seemed impossible. We continued to climb and descend towards tributary crossings and the end was just out of sight. At one point we spotted what turned out to be Bagar, an abandoned hotel site. Finally, just as heavy clouds shrouded the valley, we reached MBC. And the temperature plummeted with the heavy clouds. All afternoon, we could barley see 10 feet in front of us as we sought refuge in the dining room and gallons of hot black tea. The night provided the most spectacular views of the stars. I have never seen them so bright
Day 10 our final march to ABC the headache remained but the euphoria of reaching our goal carried me through. I was not going to break any records getting to base camp especially as walking in such a low oxygen environment was proving to be difficult. We made it at midday on such a clear day. We were blessed yesterday clouds enveloped the valley and today, we had opportunity to see all around usand what a stupendous view. No photograph will ever do justice.you have to see with your own eyesand even that is difficultto comprehend heights, depths, and the sheer vastness of the amphitheatre around you. A toast was drunk by us to remember all our family/ friends and all those no longer with us. I felt privileged to be there. Unable to take in all that was around me.
I found time by myself to sit near a stupaNepali shrine..to contemplate.to appreciate the beautyto think how lucky I was and felt at one with those dearly departed.
Our descent was done with relative speed all the way to Doban on Day 11. We had started walking on Day 12 early from Doban some 8 kms away and at 5.30pm with the sun setting, I found myself having to climb those dreaded 3229 steps up to Chomrong! At 6.30pm, with some 300 steps to go and no natural light, Hemant who had reached the lodge earlier came looking for me with his torch. I was completely exhausted and each step was an ordeal.
Day 13 was relaxing in the hot springs at Jinu Danda and on the last night another long haul, sustained by an emergency choclate bar of Cadburys flake given to me by Priya., my niece. We ended our trek in Naya Pul , 1070m.
The 14 days was a physical test for me.I need to get thoroughly fitand yes, I would do this again.the mountains offer something I have never encountered before.
Conclusion:
I will end by quoting Anotoli Boukreev, a Russian mountaineer and a gifted athlete, who died on 25th December 1997.
I want to achieve something essential in my life, something that is not measured by money or position in societyThe mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambitions to achieve. They are my cathedrals, the houses of my religion.
Their presence is grand and pure. I go to them as all humans go to worship. In their presence I attempt to understand my life, to purify myself of earthly vanity, greed and fear. On their alter, I strive to perfect myself, physically and spiritually. From their vantage point, I view my past, dream of the future and with unusual acuteness, I experience the present. My ascents renew my strength and clear my vision.
They are the way I practice my religion. In the mountains, I celebrate creation, and on each journey I am reborn.
Anotoli Boukreev
I had a taste of what this mountaineer experienced. Unlike any journey I have made in my life, I have experienced something exceptional and learnt many new thingsI will be back to the Annapurna region again and again..once again, I remain indebted to my companion, my brother, Hemant without whom none of this would have been possible.
The trek was in aid of the SPA building project 2007 and my personal aim was to raise 5,000 pounds sterling. Donations can be made online at: www.justgiving.com/kirandmistry
I am enormously grateful to all those who have donated and thank in advance those who will contribute in the future. Please note, this was a self-funded trip and all donations will go direct to the charity.
